August Assessments in the Garden
What went wrong, what went right …
Gardening in the hot, muggy days of August can seem like a marathon. We gardeners can only dream of sitting in our lounge chairs, sipping lemonade and enjoying the fruits (and vegetables) of our summer labor.
Enjoy that cold drink in the afternoon after a day of assessing your garden this month — which plants did well and which plants did not.
My garden beds are currently decked out in a riot of yellow blooms (rudbeckia), orange blooms (Echinacea) and blue flowers (salvia 'black and blue'). These plants did well despite the heat, humidity and lack of rainfall. I will keep these standouts and increase the number of hardy salvia. I have fallen in love with hardy salvia this summer, and I intend to add an orange-red variety (salvia ‘darcyi’) next season.
I have enjoyed these colorful plants all summer long, and so have the butterflies, goldfinches and hummingbirds — I have never seen so many in my gardens.
Some of my plants did not do so well this summer (particularly, my yellow KnockOut Roses) and, as a result, I have “holes” in my garden beds. I will view those failures as an opportunity to consider some different plants to bring color into my gardens for the late summer and fall.
Hardy hibiscus, cardinal flower (lobelia cardinalis) and dwarf crepe myrtle would all be good choices to deliver a pop of color in August and September. You can find varieties with blooms of white, yellow, pink and red. Turtlehead (chelone) is also in bloom now, and comes in hues of white and lavender.
While assessing my garden beds this week, I have also deadheaded (removed the dead or spent flowers to encourage more flowering) and removed diseased plant material. I have added another layer of leaf mold as mulch and pruned my lace-cap hydrangeas. These garden tasks need to be done now to prolong the health and bloom time of your garden.
I also must confess that this hot and dry summer weather has completely destroyed my small lawn, despite all efforts to save it. Growing lawn turf in the Mid-Atlantic is a very labor-intensive exercise, with seemingly little return for the investment of time spent seeding, aerating, fertilizing, mowing and watering. This fall I will be redesigning the grassy area as an English garden with pea gravel paths and a small “walkway” of lawn.
As we head into the end of summer and beginning of fall, let’s hope for cooler weather and more rain to help our gardens bloom … and maybe help reduce our utility bills as well!
Eleni Silverman is a Master Gardener, Vice President of the Belle Haven Garden Club, Chair of the Landscape Committee at Thomas Jefferson High School for Science and Technology and author of the garden blog "Belle Haven Garden Maven." She is the owner of The Well Tended Garden, providing garden grooming, coaching and design. She admits to a fascination with all things gardening, believes even compost is engaging, and will eagerly discuss the relative merits of leaf mold versus hardwood mulch.
Roberta Masters-Cullen
7:09 am on Tuesday, August 7, 2012
To be honest, I'm surprised to read that you're "fertilizing" a lawn with your credentials. Surely you've thought about the run-off that flows into the Potomac and Chesapeake Bay from your property?
Eleni Silverman
8:45 am on Tuesday, August 7, 2012
I absolutely have considered runoff; I've reduced my lawn to 75 sq feet in the past 5 years--expanding my garden beds and creating buffers to control water runoff from my property. I use no pesticides or herbicides, just a slow release fertilizer for the small patch of lawn.....
Having said that, I'm about to removed even my small lawn area.
R. C. Scott
2:38 pm on Tuesday, August 7, 2012
I always enjoy your columns, Eleni. I recently did a garden assessment, too--jotting notes in my garden journal. (I tape in the plastic tags that come with each plant and leave plenty of room for notes.) Old Southern summer stand-bys didn't do as well this year---lantana, notably. And of course the lawn is a disaster. But I had surprising good luck with hibiscus, asparagus fern, mona lavender plectranthus (new to me this season), and mandeville, which I can hardly keep contained. Also, Confederate jasmine, which I have in a huge pot with a trellis & which smells divine. This spring was the first time I'd ever seen it in the nurseries this far north, no doubt another indication of climate change, and it's doing rather well. Of course it's made for this awful heat.
I was surprised to read that you pruned your hydrangea---this time of year?? rather than very early spring? And speaking of pruning, do you have any thoughts about pruning wisteria? I have one of those "volunteers", the Chinese variety, and it's lush & green & has taken over a pergola, but it's purple & fragrant blooms haven't appeared in several years. I've read that this is the time of year to give it a good whack, but I hesitate to lose the green. Any thoughts?
Eleni Silverman
10:58 am on Wednesday, August 8, 2012
R.C.
It's a great time of year to do this assessment while you enjoy your garden. I keep a journal too-- the past two years I've been using Lee Valley's Ten year Gardening Journal-- each page has ten year's worth of temps and garden bloom records. We are definitely in a changing environment--most of my ornamentals have bloomed at least two weeks earlier this year than last.
I'm glad to hear your hardy hibiscus did well this year--it's on my list to plant for next season. I'll be looking for the Confederate jasmine too--seems like a great addition to a southern garden, and I've got a west facing wall that would be a perfect site.
RE the hydrangeas: lace cap hydrangeas bloom on OLD wood, so it's best to prune them after they bloom, but before the first week of August. They set next years blooms from late August through October. If you prune them in spring, you'll be pruning the blooms. I was a little late deadheading and pruning my lace-cap hydrangeas--but I took the chance that this winter would be mild too, and I'd get enough new growth.
I'd love to hear any more advice from you as well.....
Eleni Silverman
Eleni Silverman
11:09 am on Wednesday, August 8, 2012
R.C.
About the Chinese wisteria: if it is wisteria sinensis it has become classified as an invasive in this region. Please be vigilant about removing any suckers or seedlings.
Prune aggressively-- this will keep your plant in check.
If you have problems with blooms, you could try applying a fertilizer high in phosphorus (the middle number in the NPK sequence on fertilizer bags) in early spring.
Pruning a couple of times a year will encourage bloom--it is best to do this in early summer after it blooms, and then again when dormant in winter. I've been told that root pruning can stimulate stubborn vines that just seem to refuse to blossom. To 'root prune' you take a shovel and drive it in to the ground in a circle around the wisteria--but make sure you are at least three feet from the trunk of your vine, as root pruning too close to the plant can kill it.
R. C. Scott
5:37 pm on Friday, August 10, 2012
Thanks, Eleni. Yeah, I did that whole "root pruning" thing on the Chinese wisteria, but to no avail. And, yes, I'm aware that it's an invasive, & boy, is it aggressive!, so I'm vigilant about keeping those "tendrils" in check. I think I might just go ahead & give it a whack, see what happens. Thanks for the tip about the Lee Valley journal--they're such nice folks to deal with, I'll definitely look for it. As for the hydrangea, yes, I know they bloom on old wood (except--and this may be the only exception--the limelight variety, which blooms on new, so it needs a good pruning, again in early spring), but I'd always heard early spring was best for pruning hydrangea,
care being given to watch for those new flower buds. I take old stalks down, clearing about 1/3 of the plant, to keep if from taking over entirely. Though I prune in early spring, I'm having good luck with my hydrangea. At least the last few years anyway--with this climate change, who the heck knows what'll happen. For instance, my lenten roses not only bloomed way, way before Lent, nearer to Christmas actually, but they continued blooming well into July. Go figure. Back to hydrangea for a minute--dug up some oak-leaf hydrangea root stock two seasons ago from a friend's garden & voila!, I have some nice little bushes now, though few flowers. That'll come, though, with care.
R. C. Scott
5:54 pm on Friday, August 10, 2012
Eleni, Me again. My sweet potatoe vines were really looking bad, and not just the drought---lots of holes. A very lovely person at Merrifield (well, they're all lovely, in my experience, though this was at Fairfax) suggested dumping spent coffee grounds into the pots. She said the problem was snails & that the coffee grounds, get this, irritate their little snail bellies while their sliming across the pots in search of a snack to the point where they just stop moving & die. Who knew? Another reason I love coffee. By the looks of my SPVs this year, it seems to work, though no SPVs next year; too prone to drought, which seems to be our new normal.
Any thoughts about some evergreens?, or anyway non-deciduous trees/shrubs? We're about to lose a huge maple, probably 50 years old, that has developed that fatal fungus (can't remember the name, but starts with an "A"). It's on our corner & has made a lovely screen. Once it's gone, we'll need to replace it with something to keep the privacy that old maple offered. (It's breaking my heart, knowing we're going to lose it---like losing your dog or your old dear friend.) We're thinking a stand of Giant Green Arborvitae and/or Skip Laurel, both of which we have elsewhere & which have done beautifully with no maintenance. Wondering if there's anything else to consider, anything you'd suggest. Hmm. Happy gardening!! R.C.